Here are a couple of articles I came
across the net, on a profession requiring supreme timing, collaborative efforts
and stamina - lunch-box delivery in Bombay. Most Bombayiites, including myself,
have at sometime used this facility. I have always been a strong admirer of this
system, and was so glad to have come across these informative articles. For fear
of them becoming lost links and vanishing from our cyber-reach in the future, I
have reproduced them below.
Bombay dispatch: A Bombay lunchbox
Guardian Unlimited
Monday June 24, 2002
by Luke Harding
[Luke Harding reports on the tiffin-wallahs, or packed lunch boys, whose
ingenious meal delivery service owes much to the Indian flair for mathematics]
In her third floor apartment in Bombay, Mrs Gavai is busy making pasta. It is
mid-morning. A delightful breeze blows through the open window into her kitchen.
In the courtyard below, noisy crows hop between the banyan trees and the
football stadium across the road. The distant honking of a car rises into the
pearly monsoon sky, before melting away somewhere over the Arabian Sea.
Mrs Gavai, meanwhile, spoons the pasta with vegetables into a small aluminium
pot. She then turns to the chana bhatura, or deep-fried chick peas, bubbling
away on the back of her stove. "This is a little bit spicy. It's got red chilli
in it, as well as ginger, garlic and masala powder. My kids like spicy food,"
she explains.
She puts the two pots into a small pink lunchbox. She zips it up carefully. Her
eight-year-old son's tiffin - as a packed lunch is still known across the Indian
subcontinent, more than half a century after the demise of the Raj - is ready.
With impeccable timing, the doorbell rings. A young man wearing pyjama-style
trousers and shirt steps inside. It is Lahu, Mrs Gavai's ever-reliable tiffin or
dabba-wallah. Lahu collects the packed lunch, legs it down three flights of
stairs, and attaches the tiffin bag to his Hercules bicycle. He then sets off at
Chris Boardman-like speed across Colaba, Bombay's genteel neo-Gothic central
district.
We try to follow in a black and yellow taxi. But within seconds we have lost
Lahu: he has vanished through a scrum of auto-rickshaws; past a derelict
pavement piled high with rubbish and empty coconut shells; beyond the
double-decker red buses; and is half way towards Mrs Gavai's son's school while
we wait at a traffic light.
This morning, as ever, Lahu is playing a small but vital role in what must
surely be the world's most ingenious meal distribution system.
Every day, like the subaltern heroes in a James Joyce novel, some 4,000
tiffin-wallahs or packed lunch boys set off across Bombay's far-flung and
verdant outer suburbs.
Parking their bicycles outside a succession of middle-class tower blocks, they
collect up to 160,000 home-cooked lunches. They take the tiffins to suburban
railway stations. There, they sort them out by destination on the platform. The
lunches then travel southwards into the centre of Bombay. Here, the
dabba-wallahs deliver them by 12.45pm sharp to hungry office workers. The ritual
is then played out in reverse: once the tiffins have been eaten, the same empty
metal containers are escorted back to where they came from.
The system owes much to the innate Indian genius for mathematics (it was an
ancient Indian mathematician who invented the concept of zero). And it recently
won international acclaim from an unlikely source, the normally arid American
business magazine Forbes.
Forbes awarded the humble dabba-wallahs a 6 Sigma performance rating, a term
used in quality assurance if the percentage of correctness is 99.9999999 or
more. In other words, for every six million tiffins delivered, only one fails to
arrive. This error rate means in effect that a tiffin goes astray only once
every two months.
It is a rare day indeed when a customer's deep-fried rotis fail to turn up. The
sigma rating was the same as that given to the top bluechip company Motorola -
not bad considering that most dabba-wallahs are illiterate.
"We are very proud," Raghunath Medge, president of the tiffin-wallahs' union,
the Nutan Mumbai Tiffin Box Suppliers Charity Trust said. "Our ancestors carried
swords in their hands. Now we carry tiffins instead."
The beauty of the system, Mr Medge explained, is the colour coding used on the
top of each tiffin box. The home address, office address, railway stations of
delivery and pick-up are all crunched into a small series of letters and
numbers, painted by hand.
An Indian entrepreneur, Mahadeo Havaji Bacche, invented the tiffin distribution
business back in 1890, to meet the culinary needs of Bombay's rapidly expanding
working population, both British and Indian. His idea caught on. Over the years
the codes became simpler. By the 1950s and 1960s the tiffin-wallahs were
delivering some 200,000 dabbas or lunch-boxes a day.
Latterly, the figure has fallen away a bit with the advent of fast food joints
and western-style restaurants. But there is no prospect of tiffin-wallah
unemployment: Bombay's conservative middle-classes remain sceptical of what is
described as "outside" food. They prefer their chapatis cooked at home,
preferably by mum. And they are deeply attached to their food- not just the
standard rice and dhal - but also the region's abundant seafood: the pomfrets
and the red snapper; the king crabs and the prawns; and - of course - the
succulent, magnificent Alphonso mangoes.
"Your stomach can get off if you eat outside food," Mrs Gavai pointed out
sagaciously. "In restaurants you don't know what oil they use or how they
prepare. You get infections." Over a small glass cup of sweet Indian tea, Mr
Medge invited us to follow a tiffin on its Odyssean journey across the city. We
accepted and at 7am the next morning got onto a commuter train at Bombay's
chaotic Churchgate station, heading north. Our destination was the distant
suburb of Andheri.
Outside, a light monsoon drizzle was falling. Next to the railway line,
meanwhile, dozens of men sat crapping in the green undergrowth under black
umbrellas. Wedged in a second-class carriage my eye fell on the adverts above
the luggage rack - for Anchor toothpaste, the Bandra Shah piles clinic and for
Moods Supreme Condoms (Dotted for Extra Pleasure. India's Most Sensational Sex
Accessory).
The train on which the tiffin distribution system entirely relies - was
thunderously fast, stopping for only five or ten seconds at each station. At
rush hour, hundreds of commuters hang off the sides of the carriages; most days
someone falls off.
From Andheri station, it was a short walk to Mr Medge's box-like office, (turn
left at the tea-stall and the electrician's, down the narrow alley). The office
walls were decorated with portraits of the tiffin wallahs' favourite Hindu gods,
the lute-playing Dyaneshwar and his friend Tukaram.
Amazingly, almost all of the tiffin-wallahs come from the same small village
near Pune, four hours away from Bombay. Most are related to each other, and for
five days each March tiffin distribution is suspended as around 1,000
tiffin-wallahs go home for the annual village festival.
Mr Medge introduced me to his nephew, Rohidas, at 26 a veteran tiffin wallah of
12 years' experience. Like all members of his profession, he was wearing a white
Nehru cap. The cap is not an affectation but a necessity: tiffin-wallahs are
expected to carry on their heads wooden tiffin baskets containing up to 45 metal
lunch-boxes. The baskets can weigh up to 90kg.
Rohidas' round took him to Vile Parle, a pleasant nearby suburb. Did he enjoy
his line of work? "It's a nice job. I'm not qualified to work in an office," he
admitted. Shadowing the bicycling Rohidas in an auto-rickshaw, we reached a
five-storey block of flats, and the home of Parag Oza, a 29-year-old manager
with the Dutch bank ABN Amro.
Mr Oza was of course away at work in downtown Bombay, but his 23-year-old bride
of one month, Tanvi, was busy preparing his tiffin with her new mother-in-law.
"It is a very good service. They are not losing anything," Tanvi said. Parag's
lunch looked delicious: his tiffin consisted of rotis, piquant Indian chutney, a
chopped tomato salad, potato bhajis, tacos, and a flask of creamy white
buttermilk. "It's full of calcium. It's very nice," Parag's mum said.
The fact that tiffins are made by women and consumed by men is hardly
surprising. India remains a traditional society where most marriages are
arranged; and families are "joint" - new brides end up living not only with
their husbands, but also with their husband's parents.
Earlier, I had asked Mr Medge whether, as had been rumoured, women sometimes
used the tiffin service to send romantic notes to their partners.
The question was greeted with vehement tut-tutting: it is against the
tiffin-wallahs' code of honour to open up the customer's lunchbox. "I haven't
sent him a note yet but we did send his chequebook once," Tanvi confirmed.
Rohidas scooped up the tiffin and we set off. Our destination, via several other
apartment blocks, was platform two of Vile Parle station and the 10.37am train
back into Bombay. As the departure time approached, dozens of other
tiffin-wallahs arrived at a wobbling jog, carrying enormous tiffin baskets on
their heads.
The tiffins were unloaded and sorted, ready to be handed over to colleagues
further down the line. As the 531 Western Railways train appeared the
tiffin-wallahs got into military formation. The train pulled up. It was clear
that the luggage compartment where the tiffins were to be stowed was already
full of bodies. But incredibly, the human sea parted to let the tiffins on with
a minimum of abuse. It was all over in four seconds. The train hurtled off
again, with us on board.
"It's a very sociable job," Sapan Mare, a tiffin-wallah since 1970 explained, as
we rattled into central Bombay. "I like the fact that I meet so many people
every day. Between 100 to 110 members of my family are in the tiffin business. I
come from a family where four generations have been tiffin-wallahs," he added
proudly.
At the next stop, a youth got on with a consignment of tummy trimmers. While
there are undoubtedly some fat people in Bombay, the home of India's excessive
film industry, nobody in the luggage compartment seemed in need of a tummy trim.
The tiffin-wallahs are self-employed. To join the profession, you need to donate
30,000 rupees (£460) to the tiffin-wallahs' union. After that you are guaranteed
a monthly income of 5,000 rupees (£77) a good salary by Indian standards - and
a job for life. The tiffins are delivered six days a week for the paltry sum of
150 rupees (£2.30) a month.
"The job lasts for as long as you are strong," Mr Medge said. The tiffin-wallahs
are all non-meat eating Hindus who belong to the same caste - although their
customers - and the contents of their lunch boxes - reflect Bombayıs rich ethnic
mix: they are Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Jain and Parsi. (The Parsis are Zoroastrians
who settled in Bombay after fleeing religious persecution in Iran; keen
philanthropists, they invented dhansaak, mutton or chicken cooked in rich dhal
sauces).
Forty minutes after getting on, we alight at Churchgate station. Rohidas sprints
down the platform with his tiffins, and emerges in the street. We cross through
a jam of black and yellow Fiat taxis to the opposite pavement.
Dozens of tiffin-wallahs have congregated here under a green flame tree; more
arrive every minute. Groups of three or four dabba-wallahs push carts laden with
hundreds of tiffins along the middle of the road. The sun is shining: it is
another sultry Bombay day.
The tiffin-wallahs sort out the lunchboxes at a furious speed. Rohidas then
moves off again with Parag's tiffin; we walk off to another tiffin sorting
station five minutes away, under the shadow of Bombay's Victorian Gothic
university, designed by the architect of St Pancras, Gilbert Scott.
There is a minor hiatus as an estate car runs over a tiffin basket; leaving at
least one lunch box terminally dented. The tiffin-wallahs have a brief cup of
tea. Rohidas then sets off again on foot to Nariman Point, Bombay's commercial
heart.
Here, numerous banks, insurance companies and oil conglomerates have their
offices; and numerous employees have their tiffin. Rohidas delivers Parag's
lunch-box on time; Parag then gamely emerges to talk to us.
"I get really good Indian food," he explains. "My tiffin is so popular that the
people in my office attack it. They want it. I'm willing to share, of course.
"Once a day it is good to have home food," he adds. "We are [upper caste] Hindu
Brahmins so in the house meat is not cooked. But I will eat meat in restaurants:
I'm not especially religious."
From his office, the muddy, dirty, frothy sea stretches away to Bombay's grotty
Chowpatty beach, and then sweeps off to infinity. The boats of the Koli people,
Bombay's original fishermen, bob nearby; 40ft away a man with his lunghi pulled
up is defecating next to the waves.
The origins of the word tiffin remain obscure: its earliest recorded use
in British India dates back to 1811. The delightful Hobson-Jobson dictionary of
Anglo-Indian words suggest several possible origins (the Arabic word tafunnun -
"diversion" - and the Chinese ch'ih-fan - "eat rice") only to loftily dismiss
them.
Like verandah, pyjamas, rickshaw, curry and junk, tiffin is an India-derived
noun that has irrevocably penetrated the English language; and we should be
grateful for it.
We never do manage to catch up again with Lahu, the Chris Boardman-like
tiffin-wallah. But we do finally track down Mrs Kalpana Gavai's eight-year-old
son, Shantanu, after he has returned from his English-medium school in Bombay's
Cuffe Parade.
How did he like the pasta? "It was nice," he says. Shantanu admits that his
favourite food is Pav Bhaji, a Bombay street dish made from bread, spiced
vegetables and green peas. On occasion his mother does not have time to cook and
sends him 20 rupees in his tiffin box instead.
"I sometimes eat idli [South Indian rice dumplings] and pizza in my school
canteen. Mostly though I prefer tiffin. Sometimes I spend my money on buying
small cars," he admits. "I also like McDonald's Happy Meals. I've got 20 cars
from McDonaldıs that you get with a veg pizza puff."
Shantanu's dad Kumar, an oil executive, is also a fan of the tiffin service.
"It's a very good system. These people are unique in nature," he explains.
In the centre of the Gavaiıs living room is a large plastic idol of Lord Ganesha,
Hinduism's much-loved elephant god. Bombay is celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi, an
11-day festival dedicated to Ganesh, who brings wisdom and prosperity.
Mrs Gavai has laid out several offerings to the pot-bellied idol: a plate of
plantains, apples, and a large green jackfruit; several nuts; a coconut; and a
tray of modak, sweets made from milk and sugar. At the end of the festival the
plastic Ganesh is tossed into the sea, together with thousands of others.
That night, from the window of my hotel, I watch as several Ganesh processions
make their way noisily along the harbour front, accompanied by singing, dancing,
banging of drums, and much flirting between teenage boys and girls.
Some of the Ganesh idols are carried; others are pushed along on handcarts. I
even spot one Ganesh idol riding sedately in the back of a taxi.
Some of the tiffin-wallahs have gone to bed already in the power cut-prone
northern suburbs; but others join in the festivities. "Last night I went to bed
at 3am. But I still managed to get up again at 6am," Mr Mare, the veteran
tiffin-wallah, said. "We are very strong people."
Email Luke Harding
:: read article online at:
www.guardian.co.uk/Archive/Article/0,4273,4447391,00.html
Fast food
Forbes Magazine
by Subrata N. Chakravarty and Naazneen Karmali
August 10, 1998
"Efficient organization" is not the first thought that comes to mind in India,
but when the profit motive is given free rein, anything is possible. To
appreciate Indian efficiency at its best, watch the tiffinwallahs at work.
These are the men who deliver 175,000 lunches (or "tiffin") each day to offices
and schools throughout Mumbai (formerly Bombay), the business capital of India.
Lunch is in a tin container consisting of a number of bowls, each containing a
separate dish, held together in a frame. The meals are prepared in the homes of
the people who commute into Mumbai each morning and delivered in their own
tiffin carriers. After lunch, the process is reversed.
And what a process it is -- despite the complexity, the 5,000 tiffinwallahs make
a mistake only about once every two months, according to Ragunath Medge, 42,
president of the Mumbai Tiffinmen's Association.
That's one error in every 8 million deliveries, or 16 million if you include the
return trip. "If we made 10 mistakes a month, no one would use our service,"
says the craggily handsome Medge.
How do they do it?
The meals are picked up from commuters' homes in suburbs around central Mumbai
long after the commuters have left for work, delivered to them on time, then
picked up and delivered home before the commuters return.
Each tiffin carrier has, painted on its top, a number of symbols which identify
where the carrier was picked up, the originating and destination stations and
the address to which it is to be delivered.
After the tiffin carriers are picked up, they are taken to the nearest railway
station, where they are sorted according to the destination station. Between
10:15 a.m. and 10:45 a.m. they are loaded in crates onto the baggage cars of
trains.
At the destination station they are unloaded by other tiffinwallahs and
resorted, this time according to street address and floor. The 100- kilogram
crates of carriers, carried on tiffinwallahs' heads, hand- wagons and cycles are
delivered at 12:30 p.m., picked up at 1:30 p.m., and returned whence they came.
The charge for this extraordinary service is just 150 rupees ($3.33) per month,
enough for the tiffinwallahs, who are mostly self-employed, to make a good
living. After paying Rs60 per crate and Rs120 per man per month to the Western
Railway for transport, the average tiffinwallah clears about Rs3, 250.
Of that sum, Rs10 goes to the Tiffinmen's Association. After minimal expenses,
the rest of the Rs50,000 a month that the Association collects go to a
charitable trust that feeds the poor.
Superb service and charity too. Can anyone ask for more?
:: read article online at www.forbes.com/global/1998/0810/0109078a.html