At one point a few yellow Mercedes taxis roared by past us. By the end of our stay in Portugal, we had upgraded our survival skills as pedestrians on foot! (Oh, did I tell you about the driver who ran over my toes on our first night in Lisboa? No really - it all happened in slow-motion ... driver watching with detachment my astonished face, even as he drove over my poor toes. Surprisingly, I wasn't much hurt, but don't try this at home!).