In the twilight, a couple walks homeward on the beachfront promenade in Nazare.
Shops close here by 7:00 p.m., but the restaurants are open till much later. The pastelarias are open till 1:00 a.m. We had dinner at a little restaurant tucked in an alleyway. Called 'Casa dos Arcos' it was occupied by a visiting school sports team and their coaches. In the open kitchen, we could see two women chefs in bustling mode. It is here that we tasted our first 'caldeirada' or the hearty fish stew that Nazaré is famous for. Also had 'sardinhas assadas' (charcoal-grilled sardines) which were wonderful, albeit messy to eat!