peacock panel, marble inlay workJAIPUR

My first stop in Rajasthan, after an 18 hour train journey travelling north from Bombay, was in the capital city of Jaipur. With Ajmeri Gate as the starting point,  we explored the city's various bazaars on foot. (Johari Bazaar - the famous jewellers' market, Tripolia bazaar or the market where you could buy hand-printed cotton fabrics, and assorted shops selling  camel skin mojri slippers with traditional upturned toes,  perfumes or attars, crushed from roses, jasmine, musk etc).  Jaipur is a bustling city of noisy, broad crowded avenues and attention catching architectural structures. Built on a dry lake bed surrounded by barren hills, it is an extremely colourful place and has 1.5 million inhabitants. Indian cities, by and large, suffer from the ill-effects of bad planning, rapid inflow of immigrants from villages, slow action and apathy on the part of those in power,  .. the results are a bit depressing - on the flip side, I saw serious traffic, (though organised in all its chaos!), overcrowding, pollution, and sanitation problems in Jaipur. The city, I found was best explored on foot, and though I had to fight for my place as a pedestrian on the road with cars, rickshaws, bicycles, camel and bullock carts all around, it was all in all, a very eventful, exciting outing!

The Old City
Jaipur owes its name, foundation and its careful planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II (1699-1744). This guy was one smart dude - interested in astronomy, science, art & architecture, he  followed the principles of the Shilpa-Shastra, an ancient Hindu treatise on architecture, designing the city around the concept of nine architectural blocks, symbolising the nine planets of the universe. Two of these blocks were devoted to the Maharaja's own palace, the City Palace. The City Palace What blows your mind away is the fabulous history on display in cities like these. The scale and conception of this palace gives you some idea of the power and wealth of the old maharajas, while the collection of royal heirlooms on display in the palace museum fill in the details of their lifestyle: sumptuous brocade robes, bloodthirsty and bizarre weaponry studded with precious stones and cast in gold and silver, carpets, priceless 500-year old miniature paintings - from the Mughal, Rjasthani and Persian schools. I was fascinated by the ancient manuscripts on display (I saw some 4th century A.D. manuscripts, a 16th century translation of Aristotles book in Urdu and  Jai Singh's translations in Arabic and Sanskrit of the astronomical treatises of ancient scientists displayed in glass cases). In one pavilion, there were two five-feet tall, solid silver holy water urns, listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest silver objects in the world.
JantarMantar observatory
The Jantar Mantar Observatory
jantarmantar1.jpg (4171 bytes)Of the 5 observatories in India, this is the largest.
Built by  Jai Singh II next to the City Palace, this incredible 18th century observatory includes a sundial with a 30m high gnomon, whose shadow moves up to 4 meters an hour.
The instruments are not unlike gigantic, futuristic sculptures chiselled in stone, one measuring up to 89 feet high and 148 feet wide, and still marking time accurate up to 1 second!

Hawa MahalHawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds)
Another exquisite landmark, exactly 200 years old, this five storey building, which looks out over a broad street lined with little shops in the old city, is made of pink sandstone. Through these semioctagonal and narrow honeycombed windows, ladies of the royal household peeked at the goings-on in the city below, without the possibilty of being observed themselves .. rather like precious birds in gilded cages, I'd think ...

Amer FortAmer Fort
An interesting drive out of Jaipur, about 11 kilometres away, I visited the 16th century Amer Fort. This was once the ancient capital of Rajasthan. Built on the hills that surround Jaipur, surrounded by the Maotha Lake on one side, where a herd of elephants bathed, it boasts of large, complex gateways, courts, stairways, pillared pavilions and palaces. This complex was built by Raja Man Singh, Mirza Raja Jai Singh and Sawai Jai Singh, over a period of about two centuries. The fort is surrounded by miles of ramparts that snake across the hills, broken by massive bastions and watchtowers.

Ganesh Pol, Amer FortOnce past the ticket counter and inside the massive fortified gates, I discovered a vast  courtyard, featuring a magnificent, pillared hall - the Diwan-i-Am, built of red sandstone, and the two-storeyed painted gateway - the Ganesh Pol. Once inside this gate, I walked through what once were palaces and formal gardens, set with pools, fountains and water channels (providing an ingenious medieval "air conditioning" system that cooled the rooms by amplifying the hill breezes and passing them over channels of perfumed water).
Jas Mandir and its 'jali' screen windows
But nothing was to prepare me for the  Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), its walls sparkling with intricately patterned mosaics of mirror-work and coloured glass. Though I didn't have a candle at hand, it is said, that when one is lit in the darkness here, it creates a magical and infinite starscape of reflected pinpoints of light. The Jas Mandir, perched on the upper floor, is a superb amalgam of the Mughal and Rajput style of architecture, as is evident from the exquisitely carved 'jali' screens, and fine mirror and stucco work.

Jaigarh Fort:
Jaigarh stands just behind the Amer Fort. Recently opened to the public, it was sealed for seven years, due to a rumour, that an enormous treasure in gold was buried, in the fort area.  It has a gigantic 16th century Jaivana cannon, the largest of its kind in the world, 20 feet long, 9 feet high, and so heavy that according some info I read, it needed four elephants to swivel it around on its axis. Though I did not see it, but at the village of Chaksu, nearly 30 miles south of here, you are shown a spring of water which is said to have gushed out of the earth on the impact of one of Jaivana's mighty cannonballs!

How to make your wallet lighter in Jaipur:
In Jaipur, precious and semiprecious stones are a reasonable buy. Other good buys -- meenakari enamelled jewellery, chunky silver jewellery sold by weight, miniature paintings, traditional Rajasthani mojri slippers, carpets, blue pottery and bright hand printed cotton fabrics, embroidered work.

meenakari necklace
kundan and meenakari necklace

bluepottery.jpg (4470 bytes)
Jaipur blue pottery

lac.jpg (7510 bytes)
'lac' bangles studded with glass, beads, bright stones and mirrors

Recommendation for your Taste-Buds:
Make sure you go for dinner to Choki Dhani, a unique ethnic food village about 10 miles out of town. Lakshmi Mishtan Bhandar offers savoury vegetarian snacks, and, if you have a sweet tooth, try the 'ghevar', a Jaipur speciality and the mishri mawa.

Etc:
Besides its own numerous places of interest, Jaipur forms an excellent base to explore Ajmer and Puskhar, famous for the Dargah of Salim Chisti and the Temple of Brahma; Shekhawati, the region of fabulous frescoes,  and the wildlife sanctuaries of Sariska and Bharatpur.

Home : Rajashthan : Jaipur : Jaisalmer : Pushkar : Jodhpur : Bombay : Goa : Rajashtani cuisine