JODHPUR

Jodhpur was my last stop in Rajasthan. It is the second-largest city in Rajasthan (after Jaipur). The Mehrangarh fort rises tall in the very centre of the city, and is visible from various quarters. Jodhpur was once the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, which means 'Land of Death', probably, referring to the harsh desert climate. Founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the old quarter is surrounded by a 10km long 16th century wall. with seven gates protecting the city.

A flourishing trading centre in the 16th century, Jodhpur is still one of the leading centres of wood, cattle, camels and salt . Of all the places I visited in Rajasthan, Jodhpur probably has the narrowest alleyways, with 2-way traffic, threading its way through a jumble of boisterous vegetable, spice, textile, silver and handicraft bazaars. And yes, it was from here that those baggy, tight horse-riding trousers  (jodhpurs) took their name, but you're unlikely to see anyone wearing them now.

Mehrangarh Fort
Mehrangarh ("Majestic Fort") rises majestically 400 feet above a rocky hill located at the centre of the city. One of Rajasthan's three great hilltop forts (the other two being Kumbhalgarh and Chittaurgarh), its awesome location, massive gates, luxurious palaces and displays within them are awesome. The views I saw from the fort parapets down onto the city below were that of a sprawling city brightened by a number of homes, their walls washed in a marine-blue paint, signifying they are the homes of Brahmins.

There are, in all, three gates, each built to commemorate a particular victory, as well as to reinforce the fort. Originally built in 1806, the fort has been added to, many times since, and spreads over 5 kms. atop the hill. The carved panels and porches, stained glass, elaborately adorned walls and latticed windows of Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Sileh Khana and Daulat Khana are worth seeing. The palaces in this fort have their own peculiar style, with narrow staircases, serving as the only means of access to the royal rooms within. A collection of well-preserved musical instruments, palanquins, cradles, costumes, furniture and cannons on the fort's ramparts are on display. Employees (sentries, guards & tourist guides) in the palace, dressed in traditional Jodhpuri garb welcome you, and offer you information related to the various rooms in the palaces, adding some folklore, legends, and royal stories to their friendly dialogue.

Jaswant Thada
Close to Mehrangarh lies this white marble cenotaph, built in 1899, in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The building is made entirely of marble, and the carvings on the arches, walls and temple roofs are very beautiful.  The inner room consists of rare portraits of various rulers.

Umaid Bhavan Palace
Said to be one of the largest private residences in the world, this 20th century palace was built as a famine relief project, which gave employment to the local people for 16 years. It is now a spacious and sumptuous hotel run by ITC, though, a part of it has been retained as a museum (housing a valuable collection of armoury & weaponry, cut-glass, clocks, paintings etc.) and part as royal residence. Under an impressive dome, the Palace houses over 300 rooms. It has its own theatre, eight dining rooms, and a banquet hall which seats three hundred people. Much of the interior of the palace is in the art deco style, and is believed to have one of the finest surviving examples of art deco in the world.

Clock Tower and Sardar Market
A prime attraction of the city, is the Clock Tower and the colourful Sardar Market near it. Narrow alleys lead to quaint bazaars selling fresh vegetables, spices, textiles, antiques, silverware and handicrafts.

Mandore
This former capital of Marwar, lies 9 kms north of Jodhpur. The gardens of Mandore also house the royal cenotaphs or 'dewals' of the Maharajas, including Maharaja Jaswant Singh and, largest and finest of all, the impressive temple-shaped memorial to Maharaja Ajit Singh. The Hall of Heroes contains 15 figures carved out of a rock wall. The vividly painted figures represent Hindu deities or local heroes on horseback. The Shrine of 33 crore Gods, is painted with figures of gods, spirits and divinities.

Monkeys are a common sight in most parts of India. Clustered together in groups, constantly bickering, snarling, and forgiving amicably all in an instant, they didn't seem very unlike us humans in our social behavior! Don't get too friendly with them though - they can normally be pretty mean if they don't get what they want!

Recommendation for your Taste-Buds:
By the time I got to Jodhpur, I had had such a wonderful time gorging on all the variety of food and desserts available, that I wasn't going to spoil it all by heeding to reason and laying off all that rich delicious stuff for a while. The tastiest food was to be had in the little roadside restaurants and dhabas. I never suffered from any tummy disorders, mainly due to the fact that I drank only bottled water, and ate food that was 'cooked'- no raw salads, or food that was sitting on shelves. Jodhpur had many little "mithai" or sweet shops selling delicious whole milk and cream preparations, and is known for its 'mawa kachori' - a rich crumbly pastry stuffed with mawa and 'bade elaichi', makhaniya lassi (rich frothy buttermilk), laddoos & peanut/jaggery chikki or brittle.

How to make your wallet lighter in Jodhpur:
There are a lot of fabric shops, selling 'bandhini' (very fine tie & dye), hand block prints, silver shops selling jewelry by weight, and antique shops.

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